"Toden" the only tramway in Tokyo: (2) Visiting Sugamo, Grannies' Harajuku - Sugamo Koshinzuka
Welcome back to my Train Travelog Japan!
To get on a Toden tram,
(1) makes sure the final desitination of the tram (caption) is farther than your desitination,
(2) get on the tram from the front door near the driver, and
(3) pay 170JPY in cash or 165JPY by an IC transit card as Suica or Pasmo*.
*You can buy a one-day ticket (400JPY) onboard or have other fare discounts for frequent use or groups.
When you get close to your destination,
(1) press one of the buttons to let the driver know you are getting off at the next station (降車ボタン), and
(2) get off the tram from the rear door.
The other day I got off at "Koshinzuka (庚申塚)" and visited Sugamo (巣鴨) nicknamed "Grannies' Harajuku (おばあちゃんの原宿)."
Getting off the tram and crossing the street and tramway to find a signboard "Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street (巣鴨地蔵通商店街)."
Looking down to the left you will find a "Sugamo Koshinzuka (巣鴨庚申塚)," a tiny unique Shinto Shrine.
There was time when many religions existed side by side and pepole didn't think much about the differences of religions. This is classified as a Shinto Shrine dedicated to a deity from our mythology, "Sarutahiko (猿田彦)" but influenced by Chinese Taoism and the Ying and Yang.
According to an eclectic belief, each of us is said to have a worm "Sanshi-chu (三尸虫)" that flees from our body every "Koshin" night in order to report all of our bad deeds to the Supreme Deity. Afraid of being punished (shortened lives) for our bad deeds by the Supreme Deity, it was a custom of the Japanese poeple to stay up all night then to watch the worm not to run.
The "Koshin" is associated with one of the animal zodiac signs, "monkey." Therefore the guardians at the entrance are monkeys, but not imaginery doggy or lionish figures you find at most other shrines in Japan!
Isn't it something?!
So the two monkey statues adorned with red bibs and caps welcome you at the entrance gate. They are on the pedestals carved with the famous "Three Wise Monkeys": Speak no evil, hear no evil and see no evil (from left to right)!
It's such a very small place and there is no priest or attendant, but there are always many visitors to the shrine.
You are kindly requested to use a water basin as below:
(1) rinse your left hand with a ladle in your right hand,
(2) rinse your right hand in the same way,
(3) pour water into your left hand cup using the ladle, and
(4) rinse your mouth with the water
to purify yourself and get ready to greet our deities at a Shinto Shrine in Japan.
And to worship,
(1) clap your hands twice in front of a worshipping hall (or an offertory box),
(2) bow your head twice slightly,
(3) worship inside of your mind (perhaps to your god is also accepted), and
(4) bow your head deeply to end your prayer.
Instead of (2) bowing slightly, people often ring the bell by swinging one of the three red-white ropes.
After this shrine you can head for another religeous place browsing small vibrant shops attracting grandmas, grandpas and a lot more visitors as:
Again sorry for the picture quality!
"Taiyaki (たい焼き)" or fish-shaped pancake filled with sweetened bean paste is priced at 100JPY! So cheap and tastey at the nearby "Tobiyasu (飛安)."
There are good "Soba-ya (蕎麦屋)" or buckwheat noodle restaurants in the area as well as many souvenir shops.
Are you planning to buy something not available abroad with Pokemon design? There are some "Itoen (伊藤園)" vending machines with "Pocket Veggy (ポケットベジ)" or "Jujitsu-yasai" fruity veggy beverage in Pokemon design bottles as Pikachu. The cans are plastic bottles are small but very cute!
After passing through the post office with a mascot "Suga-mon" on top of a red post box:
You will find one of the most famous souvenirs in Sugamo!
Red looking shops "Maruji (マルジ)" are selling red underwears!
Red is an auspicious color in Japan and many parts of Asia. Red is the color to boost your energy and bring happiness to you. Senior women visitors to this area love to buy some. Have a peep at least.
Before reaching to the main spot, which I will write about in the next entry, I would like to mention about the most popular restaurant in the area: "Tokiwa-shokudo (ときわ食堂)."
It's always crowded there. As you can see they make a line in order to enter.
Every day ending with 4 is a fair day at Sugamo Jizo-dori Shopping Street, when more street vendors and visitors on the street. The line gets much longer then, but still they patiently wait to be served. It's worth trying if you are a fish eater.
I'm getting hungry now. I'm heading out to have lunch!
See you in the next entry about the main Buddhist Temple and so on. Thank you!
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