Miss birdies sassafras tea pdf download

The grass is lush, the wombats fat, and the nights are cold. The wombats emerge about midnight, munch, growl, and go back to bed, which is where I stay too. It's been a strange year to be a writer, just as it has been a strange and often terrible year for so many people. A writer always has to send a book out into the unknown, but after that you get to see the faces of readers at festivals, and book launches, and talks at libraries or halls. The books are selling.

I hope they are loved, or are, at least, entertaining. But it's still strange to have so little connection with those who have read the books, or who are going to read them. The Ghos t of Gibbler's Creek. Out: December Free! So this will be in the blog in December. Clancy of the Overflow finished with both Jed and Scarlett pregnant. William may no longer be a policeman, but this is a crime close to home and heart.

The ghosts may have their own opinions, too…. No Hearts of Gold. Out: End of November Some girls are born to be loved,. Some are born to be useful,. And some are born to be bad …. Viola Montefiore is the dark-skinned changeling of a ducal family, kept hidden and then shipped away. Titania Boot is as broad as a carthorse, and as useful. On the long sea voyage from their homeland of England, these three women are fast bonded in an unlikely friendship.

In the turmoil of an s-Australia reinventing itself from convict colonies to a land of gold rushes and elusive riches, one woman forges a business empire. Another brews illegal hooch with a bushranger as the valleys and indigenous lands around her are destroyed.

The third vanishes on her wedding day, in a scandal that will intrigue and mystify Sydney's polite society and beyond. I profoundly hope it might be. Instead, this book shows them as business-women, farmers, bushrangers and illegal brewers, as well as arbiters of a destiny far richer than the glitter and lure of gold.

Christmas Always Comes created with the wonderful Bruce Whatley. How will Santa find them on the long and dusty road? And will there presents and pudding and a tree in the morning? But Joey knows that Christmas always comes. This is a story about finding joy and beauty where you least expect it, and how kindness can create miracles.

Legends of the Lost Lilie s Miss Lily 5. This is the fifth and final book in the Miss Lily series, tracing the major shift in how we have seen ourselves as women from But: this was a beginning.

Each book is based on women that have been ignored or deleted from the historical records, from the vital work of women in World War I — most of it unofficial, like the majority of the medical and provisioning of the armies, plus transport in many cases too — to this final book, the espionage agents of World War II. The women of SOE, sent to aid French resistance groups, have been celebrated, but the longer term work, both covert and in the war Ministries, again has been deleted, partly because some operations, at least, were still ongoing in the Cold War that followed World War II.

Which still happens, of course, but now we deplore it instead of applaud it. But the Miss Lily series was written backwards -- this book came first, and I had to write the others that led up to it before I could publish this one. Out: Now. A story of adventure and mystery and some hilarity in the depression, with a castle, a monster, eccentric aunts and the beginnings of modern movies, an industry in which, for a while, Australia led the world.

Night Ride into Danger. Out: May Young Jem Donavan takes the reins when his father is injured, facing floods, mist, mud, and the secrets of seven passengers. The seventh secret may be deadly. There is also a hidden treasure — a real one, which may still be waiting to be found. The book might just give you clues about where it could be The Fire Wombat with Danny Snell.

A picture book. Calycanthus An essential oil used in quality perfumery e. The tree grows to about 8 feet high and is native to N. The oil provides a fruity odour reminiscent of ripe apples. An essential oil, composed mainly of eugenol, is distilled from the leaves and used in quality perfumery e. There are two sorts: 1. True Camomile Anthemis nobilis , also called Roman Camomile, English Camomile, Common Camomile and Manzanilla, a small low-growing herb with a scent of apples the name Camomile derives from the Greek 'ground apple' and Manzanilla means in Spanish 'little apple'.

The plant is native to the Mediterranean area and also found growing in Iran, India and elsewhere. The dried flowers are used in sachets and pot pourri. This plant has been grown for centuries in English gardens for its use as a general domestic medicine; in the Middle Ages it was used as a strewing herb. The ancient Egyptians used it to cure ague.

German Camomile Matricaria chamomilla , also called Wild Camomile, Blue Camomile and Scented Mayweed, a small herb growing from Europe to Afghanistan and now cultivated widely, particularly in Egypt, Hungary and Germany, for its essential oil Oil of German Camomile obtained from the flowers. This oil, which is steam- distilled, has a very sweet apple fragrance and is used in perfumes and for scenting shampoos, liqueurs and tobaccos.

A similar oil is derived from a closely related plant, Matricaria discoidea, also cultivated widely. The oil is distilled from the wood and allowed to settle until the camphor crystals emerge, the liquor then being redistilled to obtain other products, most importantly safrole, used for manufacturing heliotropin for the perfume trade. Camphor was once an important material in the manufacture of celluloid.

A single tree can yield 3 tons of camphor. A synthetic camphor is made from pinene. Camphor was one of the most popular of all perfume ingredients in the early Arab world. It features in more than a quarter of al-Kindi's perfume recipes and in many other medieval Arab works, including the Arabian Nights Tales.

In Europe it was once a popular ingredient in po manders, because it was thought to prevent infectious diseases. The dry crystals are sometimes used in sachets and pot pourri.

This balsam is also used for manufacturing Borneol, occasionally used in soap perfumery. The balsam is also used locally as an incense. It is used in perfumery and as a fixative in soaps. A spicy and ginger-like essential oil is distilled from the roots and used in perfumery.

It was once used to make candles with a pleasing aroma. Candle Plant see Dittany Candles, Scented Scented candles have been made since the days of antiquity from various waxes with added perfume materials.

The early Arabs were fond of candles perfumed with camphor. Some waxes obtained from plants burn with a pleasing natural aroma, notably Carnauba, Candleberry and Sweet Gale, which became popular materials for candlemakers during the 19th century. The bark, first brought to Britain in about , was initially thought by Spaniards in America to be a species of cinnamon. It has a spicy odour between cinnamon and clove and is exported in quills which can be powdered or broken up for use in sachets and pot pourri.

Hyacinth, lily of the valley, jasmine and rose in the top notes unfold to a heart containing ylang-ylang and iris, with nuances of patchouli, oak moss, sandalwood and vetivert. The sweet, powdery base includes frankincense, musk, amber and opoponax. An essential oil with a very intense, spicy odour Oil of Caraway, also called Oleo Carvi is steam- distilled from the fruits and leaves, mainly for flavouring but occasionally for use in perfumery it appears, for example, in 'Tsar'.

Some 6lb of seeds will provide about 40z of oil. The seeds are used in sachets and pot pourri. Caraway was well known in classical times. Pliny states that it was named after Caria, in Asia Minor, where it was first found. In early times it was believed that anything containing it would be safe from theft, also that it would prevent lovers from becoming fickle and pigeons from straying.

Dioscorides advised that the oil was good for 'pale-faced girls'. A tall, reed-like perennial shrub Elletaria cardamomum native to S. India and Sri Lanka, the seeds of which are valued as a flavouring, used in incenses and steam-distilled to provide an essential oil.

The oil has a spicy, eucalyptus-like odour and is used in many perfumes, including quality ones e. There are different varieties of cardamom from different species of the plant. It is cultivated for the seeds in S. India and Sri Lanka and also in Malaysia and Guatemala. Cardamom was used in some of the unguents of ancient Egypt and was listed by Theophrastus in about BC as one of the principal fragrant plants used in Greek perfumes.

The Romans used it on a substantial scale, particularly as a flavouring, and Dioscorides men- tioned its medicinal uses. It was among the raw materials of the early Arab perfume makers.

For Greater Cardamom see Grains of Paradise. By he had become a leading fashion designer, later extending his interests to include the designing of furniture, home accessories and cars.

In he opened the first of a series of boutiques under the name 'Maxims de Paris', later acquiring the famous restaurant of that name. Cardin fragrances include 'Cardin' , 'Choc' 81 , 'Paradoxe' 83 and 'Maxims de Paris' 85 , together with a fragrance for men 'Pour Homme'. His creations included 'Shocking' and 'Canoe'. Carmelite Water A toilet water first prepared in about by the nuns of the Carmelite abbey of St Just for the ageing King Charles V of France, which became popular throughout Europe.

It was made of balm, lemon peel, orange flower water and various spices distilled in alcohol. See Appendix B, recipes nos 53 and Carnation An essential oil, often called Carnation, is obtained from the Carnation, or Clove-pink flower see under Clove-pink. The name carnation is also used for compound perfumes with a carnation-like fragrance made from synthetics, mostly derived from eugenol.

During the 19th century it was imported into Europe on a substantial scale to be made into candles, which burned with the aroma of new-mown hay. It was created by Maurice Shaller. Citrusy top notes introduce a floral heart built on cyclamen, with rose, jasmine, lily and ylang-ylang, and underlined by a warm, woody base note containing patchouli, amber, vanilla, civet and musk. It is a 'linear fragrance' i. In he was joined by Felicie Bergaud, a fashion designer. In they launched 'Narcisse Noir', a world-wide success, to be followed, among others, by 'Tabac Blond' 19 , 'Nuit de Noel' 22 , 'Bellodgia' 27 , 'Fleurs de Rocaille' 33 , 'Fetes de Roses' 36 which appeared in a unique Baccarat gilded crystal bottle designed by Felicie Bergaud and now a rare collector's piece and 'Rose de Noel' 39 in a flacon by Lalique also designed by Madame Bergaud.

A men's fragrance, 'Pour un Homme' was issued in Carophylli see Clove Oil. An oil with an orris-like fragrance steam-distilled from the seeds of the carrot plant Oaucus carota and used in flavouring and liqueurs as well as in fougere and chypre-type perfumes.

The carrot plant originated in Afghanistan but is now cultivated widely in temperate regions. The carrot is mentioned in Greek literature from as early as Be. Carthamus lanatus see Safflower tinctorius see Safflower Carum carvi see Caraway copticum see Ajowan Carven Opened in by Madame Carven as a fashion house catering for the 'petite', and now producing a variety of fashion wear and accessories, the house of Carven produced its classic perfume 'Ma Griffe' in This has since been followed by, among others, 'Robe d'un Soir' 47 , 'Madame de Carven' 79 , 'Guirlandes' 82 'Intrigue' 86 and a men's fragrance 'Vetiver' Carvone A chemical found in many essential oils which is used to provide perfumes with a clean, sweet, spearmint-like odour.

Also the residue of Clove Oil after eugenol has been removed from it, which is sometimes used to perfume soaps. It is also found in many other essential oils. A fragrant bark from a small bush-like tree Croton eleutaria found in the Bahamas, particularly on the island of Eleutharia, and cultivated in Florida. The bark has a slight odour of musk. Introduced into Europe by the 17th century, it is used as an incense and in sachets and pot pourri, and an essential oil is distilled from the bark with a cinnamon-like fragrance and occasionally used in quality perfumes e.

America, where it is usually kept to about 10 feet high. The bark closely resembles cinnamon but is thicker and of a less delicate flavour. The dried buds, known as Chinese Cassia Buds, have been used in Europe as a spice since the Middle Ages; since Victorian times both buds and bark have been used in sachets and pot pourri.

Cassia and cinnamon were among the most popular perfume materials of ancient times but were often confused in the classical texts. They are referred to in ancient Egyptian unguent recipes, and Theophrastus quotes them as ingredients of Megalaeion perfume. Their use in both Greece and Rome is well testified.

The Bible contains a number of references to them and both were constituents of the Jewish holy anointing oil. But scholars do not believe that either product came in those times from the plants which provide them today. Herodotus said they both came from Arabia. Other classical authors described plants quite different from those of today, and a trade which, in around BC, brought these materials to a S. Arabian Red Sea port on rafts from the nearby African coasts.

It is now thought probable that the cinnamon of ancient times was a bark later called Qirfah in Arabic, which the Arabs of a later period regarded as an inferior sort of cinnamon coming from S. Arabia and Africa; but the tree which provided it has not yet been identified.

Similarly the cassia of ancient times may have been a bark known to later Arabs as Sallkha, which also has not yet been identified further. AI-Kindi listed both these materials in his perfume recipes of the 8th century AD.

By the 1st century AD it would appear that both Qirfah and SaHkha were begin- ning to be replaced by the superior forms of cinnamon and cassia available from the Far East which we know today and which assumed the names of the earlier materials. See also Cinnamon. Cassidony see Stoechas Cassie Ancienne An essential oil, also known as Cassie Farnese and sometimes, incorrectly, as Cassia Oil , extracted from the flowers of the Sweet Acacia Acacia farnesiana , also called Popinac, Opoponax but see the entry under that name , and Huisache, a shrub-like tree growing to about 10 feet high in tropical and northern Africa.

First cultivated for perfumery in Rome towards the end of the 16th century, the tree is now grown in the south of France, Lebanon and elsewhere for this oil, which is produced as a concrete or absolute. It appears in many modern perfumes e. It should not be confused with cassis or cassia.

A small box made of ivory, silver or gold, with a perforated lid, into which was placed a perfumed paste. Cassolettes were popular in Europe, including Britain, during the 16th century. See also under Pomander and Vinaigrette. See also Appendix B, recipes no. The oil is usually extracted by pressing. In the 5th century BC, Herodotus knew of it as kiki; at that time it was used by the ancient Egyptians as a base oil for perfumes, to absorb the scents of other plants see Balanos.

Early Arab perfumers soaked the wood in other fragrances to produce a solid perfume base. The oil is still used in a processed form in modern perfumery. Throughout history the oil has also been used as a lamp oil. As with musk and civet, it has a strong, disagreeable odour until it is considerably diluted, when it becomes highly fragrant; in early times the usual dilutant was wine. Castoreum was known to the early Arab perfume makers 9th century AD.

It was once used in pomanders, but, being scarce and costly, not on any scale. In the 19th century it went out of fashion, but it is now used a lot in modern quality perfumes e. It is an excellent fixative and gives perfumes a spicy or oriental note.

Ammoniacum, the fragrance of which is somewhat similar, is sometimes used as a substitute. Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana native to N. America, provides Red Cedarwood Oil, also called Cedarwood Oil, which is the cedar oil mostly used today.

American Indians burned the leaves as an incense. India and Malaysia, provides a Cedar Oil distilled from its sawdust and shavings.

Prickly Cedar Juniperus oxycedrus , also called Prickly Juniper, yields Oil of Cade, distilled from the wood and nowadays used medicinally. It has a leathery, tar-like odour and was used by the early Arab perfume makers in many of their perfume recipes. Cedar of Lebanon, also called Himalayan Cedar Cedrus libani provides a cedar oil sometimes used in perfumery.

Africa, provides an essential oil with a balsamic odour. In early times the twigs and roots of cedar were much used in incenses.

The ancient Egyptians made coffins from the wood because of its durability and fragrance, and also used cedar oil in embalming. Dried cedarwood fragments are still used in sachets and pot pourri. It has a spicy, sweet, celery-like odour and is used in creating perfumes with a sweet-pea or tuberose fragrance. Celestial Water A 16th century Italian concoction originally known in the Latin as aqua coloestis distilled from numerous fragrant herbs and flowers and used to purify the air and ward off disease.

Its contents included calamus, cinnamon, citron peel, gith, sandalwood and zedoary. The perfume, which is a linear fragrance, contains an unusual floral bouquet of seringa, orange blossom and osmanthus, underlined by sandalwood, vanilla and tonka bean. The bottle is shaped to suggest a heart, with a coral branch cap.

In French the name means both 'wild heart beats' and 'the drum beats of surrender'. The top notes are green, principally from galbanum, with a floral heart which is based on rose, jasmine, muguet and lilac, made spicy by a touch of clove, and with sweet balsamic base notes founded mainly on benzoin, with vetivert, sandalwood, vanilla, balsam of Peru and balsam of Tolu.

The flacon, heart-shaped with a spear-head stopper, is by Robert Granai. A sweet-scented essential oil dis- tilled from the flowers of species of the Champaca tree Michelia champaca, M. The oil is usually produced as a concrete or absolute and is one of the principal attars used in perfumery, but is scarce and therefore expensive. In Thailand it is also used as a body oil and for scenting the hair. In India the flowers are used by women as a hair decoration.

An oil with the odour of Basil is also distilled from the leaves of this tree and is known as Champaca Leaf Oil. An essential oil with a soft rose-like fragrance steam-distilled from the wood of the Pao Santa tree Bulnesia sarmienti , also called Palo Balsamo and Paraguay Lignum, found in Argentina and Paraguay.

The oil is mostly used in soaps and household products, particularly to conceal the smell of harsh-scented aromatics. In Bulgaria it is sometimes used to adulterate rose oil. It also appears occasionally in high-class perfumes e.

Chanel 'Coco' Chanel , brought up in an orphanage, opened her first boutique in She quickly established herself as the leading figure in the move from the stiff fashion styles of the 19th century, combining her designs for clothes with complementary accessories to produce, in the s, the 'Total Look', and launching, in , the fashion of 'the little black dress'.

By Mademoiselle Chanel em- ployed some seamstresses and was a leading Parisian socialite and arts patron who could refuse an offer of marriage from the fabulously wealthy Duke of Westminster with the statement: There are many Duchesses but only one ChaneI'. With the outbreak of war she closed her business for 15 years.

In , having encouraged a perfume chemist Ernest Beaux with his experiments in the use of aldehydes, she became the first couturier to produce a perfume, 'Chanel No. Other perfumes followed, including 'Chanel No. The company's 'nose' is at present Jacques PaIge. The main factory is on the outskirts of Paris.

It was created for Chanel by Ernest Beaux and first marketed in The aldehydic top note, fresh and floral, with ylang-ylang and neroli, gives way to a floral heart, mainly of blended jasmine and rose, and to woody base notes dominated by sandalwood and vetiver, but the perfume contains altogether about ingredients. The bottle, designed by Sem, a French artist, was chosen by Mademoiselle Chanel to reflect the style of elegant simplicity found in her fashions.

In the Eau de Toilette of this perfume was en- 'Chanel No. It was called 'No. The green top note is mainly obtained by galbanum, with neroli and orris predominating in the middle notes and cedar, oak moss and leathery notes in the base. The bottle is a Chanel design. A top note of orange blossom and citrus with a fruity touch from peach, heralds a floral bouquet in the heart, which is predominantly clove-pink, supported by rose, orchid, ylang-ylang, iris and tuberose.

The base includes amber, sandalwood, vetivert, frankincense, vanilla, tonka and musk. It is said to have taken 7 years to compose. An aldehyde top note of mirabelle and gardenia heads a middle note containing jasmine, honeysuckle, clove buds and ylang-ylang, with a lower note which includes benzoin, musk, frankincense, vetivert, tree moss and heliotrope.

Fresh top notes, which include orange blossom with spicy nuances, lead into a middle note in which rose and jasmine are joined by mossy, woody and chypre scents, with a base note containing sandalwood, vetivert, patchouli and amber. Charabot, Eugene French author of 'Les Parfums Artificiels', published in , the first book devoted to the subject of synthetic perfumes.

The company initially sold skin care preparations and cosmetics, entering the fragrance market with 'Ritz' , followed by 'Charivari', 'Enjoli' and 'Charles of the Ritz' and 'Senchal' The company is now associated with the perfume houses of Gianni Yersace see 'Y'E' and Claude Montana see 'Montana' and forms a part of the Revlon group.

The quality perfume 'Charles of the Ritz' is a 'florien tal' fragrance see Perfume Families. Its top note, predominantly geranium, basil and tangerine, leads into a heart containing rose, jasmine, carnation and ylang-ylang, with a base note which includes amber, orange flower, sandalwood, tuberose, frankincense, vetivert and musk.

It was created by Florasynth perfumers. A green top note, pre- dominantly citrus, overlies a middle note of jasmine and other flower fragrances, with cedarwood the principal of the base notes. Chassis see Enfleurage Chatelaine Bottle A style of perfume bottle, popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, made to hang from a chatelaine a set of fine chains attached to a belt to carry keys, scissors, etc. A concrete is extraced from the flowers, which have a fragrance suggestive of jasmine, orange peel and jonquil.

Aldehydic and spicy top notes lead into a heart which is predominantly rose and jasmine, blending with a base note mostly of patchouli, vetivert, sandalwood and oak moss.

It was created by perfumers of IFF. Containing ingredients, its principal middle note is tuberose, supported by other flower fragrances induding jonquil, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris and ylang-ylang. Heading this are fruity green top notes, while the main base note is musk. The spherical bottle, with a sculptured stopper representing a 'Chloe'. Cinnamon 51 lily, was designed by Joe Messina and has won a Fragrance Foundation award.

Dammar itself is burnt as an incense. Chucklusa see Peucedan Gum Chypre An important perfume in Roman times see Roman Perfumes manufactured in Cyprus and made of storax, labdanum and calamus, which gave it a distinctively heady and oriental aroma. This style of perfume continued to be manufactured in Italy into the Middle Ages under a variety of formulas, retaining the name 'Chypre', and was also produced in France as Cyprus Powder, with oak moss as a base.

In 17th and 18th century France there was a fashion for small models of birds, known as Oiselets de Chypre, moulded out of a Chypre perfume paste one recipe required benjamin, cloves, cinnamon, calamus and gum tragacanth as ingredients and contained in ornate hanging cages. In modern times the term chypre is used to designate one of the main Perfume Families. Chypre perfumes are mostly based on oak moss, patchouli, labdanum or clary sage, with the addition of flowery notes such as rose or jasmine, and a sweet note such as bergamot or lemon.

The first of the 20th century chypre perfumes was issued by Coty in with the brand name 'Chypre'. It provided fresh top notes of bergamot, supported by traces of lemon, neroli and orange, with a floral middle note mainly of rose and jasmine, and a base note in which oak moss predominated, but with patchouli, labdanum, storax, civet and musk in the background. It is designed to reflect the excitement of the life of the 'international set'.

The top note is created around osmanthus, with green and citrusy notes, leading into a heavily floral middle note in which osmanthus is joined by, among others, rose, jasmine, cassis and hyacinth.

The base includes oak moss, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar and vetivert. India and Sri Lanka and cultivated elsewhere. The trees, which reach a height of about 30 feet, grow best in sand. Only the inner bark of branches and young shoots is used to make cinnamon, appearing either as rolled quills or in powdered form. The oil, which is among those now synthesized for safety or environmental reasons see Perfume Creation , is used in perfumery, particularly in oriental-type perfumes examples of modern quality fragrances containing it are 'Dioressence', 'Mitsouko', 'Old Spice' and 'Xeryus'.

Cinnamon can also be used in sachets and pot pourri, and was at one time used in pomanders and perfumed beads, but the main use of the dried materials now is in flavourings and medicines. Another oil, Cinnamon Leaf Oil, is distilled from the green leaves for use in perfumery and in flavourings.

Cinnamon has a very ancient history as an important perfume ingredient. It is mentioned in the Bible, notably as an ingredient of the holy anointing oil see Bible Perfumes and by many Greek and Roman authors see Greek Perfumes and Roman Perfumes , usually in conjunction with cassia.

Pliny described a cinnamon unguent which also contained Xylobalsam and which 'fetches enormous prices'. However, the cinnamon of very early times would appear to have come from a different plant, growing in areas of Africa opposite the coasts of S.

Arabia, which has not yet been identified. On this subject see Cassia. The true cinnamon of today seems unlikely to have appeared in Europe on any scale until Roman trade with the Far East began to develop around the end of the 1st century Be.

At this time the Romans also began to import malabathrum from northern India. Cinnamon brought from China was well known to Arab perfume makers by the 9th century AD. It is used to give perfumes a fresh, lemon odour.

In its pure commercial form it is so powerful that the nose can be paralysed by it and unable to smell anything else for some hours see Perfume Creation. Citron A lemon-like essential oil used in perfumery, which is distilled from the rind of the Citron tree Citrus medica , sometimes called Jewish Citron.

The tree is native to subtropical Asia and mainly cultivated for the oil in S. Italy and Corsica. Under the name Etrog Citron the oil is used in Jewish festivals.

The Arabs, who first introduced the tree into the Mediterranean area from India, call the tree Utruj, which is of Persian origin, although in Iran that word now means an 'orange'.

Early Arab perfume makers used oils obtained from the flowers, pips, leaves and peel. The oil is used on a sub- stantial scale in perfumes, soaps and aerosols.

It also provides Geraniol, Citronellal and Citronellol, used in many synthetic fragrances. In per- fumery the oil produced in Sri Lanka, which comes from a different variety of the plant and is inferior, is termed Ceylon Oil, that produced in other parts of the Far East being known as Java Oil. Citronellal An aldehyde manufactured synthetically from pinene or obtained from citronella and certain eucalyptus oils. It has a powerful herbaceous odour, and is used in synthetic perfumes. Citronellol A constituent of Oil of Citronella with a sweet rose-like fragrance which is extracted as an alcohol and used in making synthetic perfumes imitating fragrances such as lily of the valley, hyacinth, narcissus and sweet pea.

It is also found in geranium and rose oils. Citrus paradisi see Grapefruit reticulata see Mandarin sinensis see Sweet Orange Civet Also called Zibetha from the Arabic Zibad , civet is one of the few perfume materials obtained from an animal and also one of the most important.

It is a soft, paste-like glandular secretion, yellow and butter- like when fresh but turning brown on exposure to the air, and is taken from a pouch under the tails of both male and female civet cats Viverra civetta and certain other species. These are wild animals native to Ethiopia and nearby parts of Africa, and, in respect of the other species notably V.

In its original and concentrated form, civet has a very strong and most obnoxious smell, but when minute quantities are diluted they become highly fragrant. Civet was not known in classical times nor, from its absence in the perfume recipes of al-Kindi, does it appear to have been known in the early days of the Arab perfume makers.

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