How long to clamp glue wood

Hide Glue is the strongest glue you can get but has the added benefit of being able to take apart with some heat to refinish the piece. Not exterior use or moisture. Best for fine furniture repair. Applying a finish to wood surfaces is an important step in protecting your furniture. Finishing wood helps bring out the natural grain, protect from swelling and cracking, and enhance durability Whenever you are using wood, you want to make sure it's protected, looks good, and feels good.

To control these factors, you need to apply a wood finish. Sometimes the desired result comes from using Skip to content. How Strong is Wood Glue? What are the different types of glue? Hide Glue which is good for reversibility, color absorption, fast tack, really strong, no creep. This type has no additives and is the strongest to use.

Wood Epoxy is used to fill open spots like knows and other damaged areas. Epoxy is a 2 part glue, is waterproof, and should not be used for structurally important spots. Select personalised content.

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The cure time is dependent on humidity and temperature AND the thickness of the glue joint. I am also with the smoother-is-better school of thought on glue joints - even if you use grit paper, your wooden surface under a microscope is many miniature hills and valleys If you apply Titebond to a very smooth joint, and hold it with finger pressure for only a few minutes, you will be amazed at the holding power - if you try it with a rough joint, you will be less amazed.

It's always a mystery to me how tightly to clamp an assembly - if you coat both surfaces before assembly, I do not believe you can have so much squeeze out that you harm the joint. On the other hand, you do not want to crush any wood fibers, either. So, my compromise is to clamp-tighten joints with cauls protecting the clamped surfaces, and stop before crushing the fiber.

But I have noticed that some masters, as Silvio points out, use no clamps - Dan Pennington also has pictures on his homepage showing a layer for a rim glue up without clamps forcing the sections together. So I am still learning. Guys, Scott Z. However, I think I heard from Scott that he started using CA instead of Titebond after talking about this subject with me, but I'm not sure about that I've seen rubber bands being used in traditional luthiery all the time. There are situations in which they are the only "clamping" device that one can use.

A few months ago I had to repair a tater bug mandolin which had its top cracked in places AND unglued from the ribs: I was able to use Klemmsia clamps to fix the top cracks, using the lightest pressure, but when it came to gluing the top to the ribs all I could do was wrap the whole body with a large and long rubber band which looked dangerously like a bike tyre tube to keep the whole thing together long enough for the glue to settle.

I used the white glue that they sell at LMI, as it binds fast, crystallizes completely, and could be reversible with hot water need it be done. I still don't see any need for clamping bridge tops though The wood was from his guitar building stock,The maple base has 5 layers of grain with a fretboard thickness of ebony. He joined the pieces through his sanding machine and glued them with psi of vacuum in a plastic bag.

He only spread glue on the maple and said you don't have to spread glue on both pieces with the vacuum machine. As the pressure built up the glue oozed out all the way around the edges. It was done in 5 minutes. He used Tite-Bond. I read the instructions on my Tite Bond bottle and it says clamp for 30 minutes. I would follow their recommendations unless you have an psi vacuum machine. For my bridge glue i mix orginal titebond with a luthiers glue i get from California is this CA Silvio?

Silvio mentioned to me years ago about sliding the topwood back and forth a couple times on the wet glue line vs. I let my blanks sit about minutes and do my final sanding which is minimal. Yo Mike! When I wrote "CA" I meant Cyano-Acrylate, sorry, I should have said super-glue, easier to understand BTW, I recalled something about gluing tops with hide glue: right about the time of my experiments with hide glue for bridges, I got an email from Bernie Caouette, to whom I'd sent bridges some time before.

Bernie wrote he'd had some bad experiences with tops coming unglued, and thought the bridges were mine. So I offered replacements for free, of course, but also asked Bernie to check accurately and let me know. He did, and turned out those bad bridges were not mine. And he bought some more bridges, but I'm afraid he didn't have time to put them on banjos, poor Bernie So I guess hide glue can be used for bridge tops too: it's fast, inexpensive, minumum clamping time if any, and it's acoustically transparent.

Next time somebody uses it in my shop I'm going to use the leftover for bridges. So I'll have yet another code to write under the feet: HG "Conversation like television set on wedding night: not necessary! I did a broken banjo once that snapped just under the peghead. I used slow epoxy and a lot of rubber bands to hold it in position.

I left it set for 3 days. It stayed together because there was enough bonding surface left after the break. Clamping until your sure the glue is dry just makes good sense. Really great stuff guys.

Glad you've included your experience with the gluing of bridge caps. Most of you know that I've been gluing all sorts of cap materials to a myriad of different base materials. I don't know why I had it in my head that I've been using Titebond. My caps are glued to the end of the grain. There is no problem, of course, with getting a smooth surface on the end of some of the harder woods, but on the softer woods, even when they are carefully sanded, the end grain looks pretty "rough ugly".

My most recent glue purchase is a new bottle of Elmer's Carpenter's wood glue interior. I'm thinking, since I've had such good beginner's? This week's bridge build of 20 bridges includes 6 capless vertical grained bridges. Anyway, I promise you I haven't been sniffing this stuff. Just using it to glue little bits together to try to make better music. My sincere thanks for all your input and all the best to you all for the holidays.

I use Elmer's Probond interrior type for my bridge caps also and it's worked well for me over the years. They recently changed the shape and colour of their containers but according to their technical rep the recipe of the glue is the same.

I've tried crazy glue and it works great but I know myself klutzy self too well to use it. When things get to hot to handle temperature wise then I know I'm either pressing the wood to hard against the sanding paper or it's telling me it's time to replace the sandpaper, usually the latter. I gotta keep reminding myself that new paper is always a LOT more aggressive than the old worn out stuff though Acoustically transparent eh, a most impressive buzz word Silvio Bart Veerman "an only banjo is a lonely banjo By the way, temperature is critical.

In Arizona, I have an oven to work with all the time. Once I stuck two pieces together while making God's Eyes, and it was so hot, I never got them apart again, Curly Maple. All Rights Reserved. Clawhammer' 4 hrs.

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