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Why is irving penn important

2022.01.07 19:29




















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The Source. Stalked by a bear at high table. Thank you! Billie Eilish and the exhaustion of being a young woman in the public eye. Through his camera, he experimented with covers and ideas before establishing himself as a professional fashion photographer. Irving Penn firmly believed that what the camera included is as important as what is excluded, which in this case were fashion models.


His first attempt at fashion photography resulted in the first-ever still life on the cover of Vogue and depicted an unorthodox composition of a scarf, gloves, lemons, oranges, a leather bag, and a topaz.


Works like Still Life with Ace of Hearts reshaped how fashion photography and magazines were viewed. In eliminating the expected content of a fashion platform, Penn modernized and revolutionized fashion periodicals, turning Vogue into a powerful portfolio of high art photography.


Auden, and Igor Stravinsky. Gone were the lithe, bird-like figures dressed in haute couture, and his focus was instead filled with pulpous bellies and wilting breasts. The rotundity of these bodies recalls classical depictions of women, where corpulence was celebrated as a sign of fertility. This radical advancement in nude photography helped the world reconsider the archetype of femininity, an idealization that we continue to try and redefine today. In the early s, Penn transformed his photos into artworks by experimenting with platinum printing; one of the most technically difficult photographic techniques.


The prints are made by placing the negative and emulsion-coated paper in direct contact with each other. In , he began photographing the female nude and created prints using a complex bleaching technique for the first time. Penn married fashion model and muse Lisa Fonssagrives in His photographs of her frequently show her slim elegance, placed in the center of the frame with few props. For the project, he visited New York, Paris, and London and photographed unrecognized tradespeople including young butchers, a coalman, a telegraph messenger, pastry cooks, and even a balloon seller, all posing formally in their work clothes and holding the tools of their trade.


It was this series that saw the genesis of what was to become characteristic of his portrait style: subjects posed against a plain background.


He also placed his subjects in corner of the frame and lighted subjects from the side. Penn used his signature style — plain background and a single source light — to photograph these ethnographic images, resulting in a unique body of work that looked completely different from anything seen before. The museum exhibited photographs of twisted paper, a paper cup, and cigarette butts, which Penn printed using platinum paper. His studio in New York continued to be busy with advertising, magazine and personal work, as well as exhibition and print projects.


His innovative portraits, still life, fashion, and beauty photographs continued to appear in Vogue right up until the end of his life. After the death of Lisa in , Penn found solace in his work and in the structure of his studio schedule, and he would paint in his spare time.


In , he donated prints and archival material to the Art Institute of Chicago. In , Penn died in New York, at the age of Irving Penn worked across a variety of genres throughout his long career. His subjects were posed against a plain background, typically a theater curtain found in Paris that he kept in his studio throughout his career. He applied the same approach whether he was photographing aborigine tribesmen, movie stars, or even the Hells Angels.


In portrait photography, there is something more profound that we seek inside a person while being painfully aware that a limitation of our medium is that the inside is recordable only insofar as is apparent on the outside.


In the s, Penn placed his sitters in a narrow corner space, which was created by angling two-stage flats to touch along their vertical edges.


The set, both physically and psychologically confined the sitters, resulting in unique portraits. A decade later, Irving Penn adopted a new direct, close-up approach to photographing subjects.


He used the same backdrop for all his portraits. Penn wanted his portraits to be both complete and profound, like the works of painters Goya, Daumier, and Toulouse-Lautrec who he greatly admired.


I feed on art more than I ever do on photographs. The reason Penn used a simple background was to isolate his subjects, so the images were free from distraction and surplus information. This allowed the viewer to concentrate on the subject and the subject only. This may be the reason the majority of his portraits are black and white, as color tends to add another element within the frame that could potentially distract the viewer.


Sensitive people faced with the prospect of a camera portrait put on a face they think is the one they would like to show the world. Instead of shooting on location or using elaborate props like many early fashion photographers, Penn instead drew attention to the clothing and accessories and photographed models, as he did with his portraiture, isolated against simple backdrops. Make things manageable enough to record them, to prune away anything inconsequential… Because less is more. As one of the first photographers to emphasize style over context, he helped to revolutionize the genre of fashion photography.


Penn was infamous for making his models repeat the same gesture, movement, or position for an entire morning. When his models showed signs of fatigue, he would then get down to business.


I am going to find what is permanent in this face. Truth comes with fatigue. He displays himself just as he is, just as he did not want to look. He was also known to take a lot of photographs — sometimes over a hundred rolls per photoshoot. His assistants were certainly kept busy. It should also be noted that his studio was a calm and professional place of work — Penn was an artist painting with light.


He had already sketched out the idea, had the image he wanted in his head, and now had to mount the image on film. Penn began photographing nudes in about the same time his career as a fashion photographer was established. His approach to nudes was completely different from his commercial work though. He devised a technique of bleaching and re-developing each print to create high contrast areas that enhance the texture and volume of the image. In terms of the images, his models are positioned either seated or lying down, and they are mostly tightly framed.


He also used a lot of top light. There is a mysterious quality to his nude images, which makes them incredibly powerful.