Where is the bathtub trap

Before you remove the plug you want to have a pail underneath that will catch the water. If the bathtub is full of water, it is not a good idea to use the clean out plug. All of the water in the tub my come gushing out. With a full bathtub, you want to snake out the trap, see below. The bathtub drain is usually in close proximity to the larger main line that the toilet is hooked to. This means that you don't need a long snake. Generally less than 25' in length. It should be a small snake, one that is suitable for a sink line.

Do Not try to snake a bathtub drain through the drain in the bottom of the tub. There is no way to control which way the snake will go. In addition, the strainer opening is too restrictive to get a snake through, it will bind the snake and may cause it to twist. Do Not try to snake a bath tub drain without removing the pop-up assembly. The snake will catch on the assembly and may ruin the linkage, the snake or both. Take off the cover for the overflow and remove the linkage and plunger for the stopper.

This is normally the spot the has the control for the drain, either a lever or a dial that causes the drain to operate. Run the snake down through the opening. The toughest part will getting through the trap. IRC , P But these are not California codes, just now noticed the forum has been segregated. Just a thought, code is minimum, could the piping below the tub be up-sized one size so there's no chance of a stopped up line? Pcinspector1 said:. ICE Moderator.

Joined Jun 23, Messages 9, Location California concrete jungle. Requirement for access has nothing to do with stoppages. Access is required because slip joints have hand set threaded fittings that are prone to leaking and will come apart if drain is snaked.

Thus, glued fittings are the proper way to go. Still need access for the pump. Off topic a bit: Does the plans call for safety glazing in those tub windows? What tub windows? Last edited: Dec 13, ICE said:. F and G and while your at it check the one in the shower, E. You must log in or register to reply here. Place a 1-foot level on a straight board exactly 4 feet long and raise one end of the board by 1 inch.

Note the position of the bubble with respect to the center lines. Set the level on the pipe and lower the end that intersects the waste line until the bubble is in the same position. Mark the point where the top of the pipe intersects the stack. If the waste line is cast iron, use a fitting with a threaded inlet and screw in a PVC male adapter.

Fit the horizontal waste line to the tee inlet and the outlet of the trap. You may have to cut off a small section of the pipe to get it to fit. Make marks on the pipes and fittings with a felt marker so you can line them up in the same positions after you disassemble them. Take the assembly apart and begin gluing the pieces together with PVC cement, starting at the sanitary tee and working toward the tub.

Glue the nipple connected to the trap inlet to the fitting in the tub drain last. If you don't have a clear path between the P-trap and the waste stack, you may need to bend the horizontal waste line with fittings.