What is the difference between 400 and 200 film

The downside is that faster films generally have more grain than slower ones. This is a "nominal" speed determined through this testing by the manufacturer.

Others can speak with much greater detail here than I can. Tash, In short, ISO is a measure of the films sensitivity to light. The larger the number, the more sensitive it is to light. Changing this on your camera could result in either overexposed or underexposed film. These are the film "speeds".

I'm sure someone can explain better than me some of the really technical aspects, but here is all you should need to know: The higher the number, the less the amount of light is needed, at a constant aperture focal length of the lens divided by the diameter of the opening , to make a correct exposure.

The colors are deep, rich, and vivid, but never cartoon-esque as some C41 color films can be. This is a film that excels under controlled lighting, or with a slower, more careful style of shooting. Buy Kodak Ektachrome E here. By purchasing anything using these links, Casual Photophile may receive a small commission at no additional charge to you. This helps Casual Photophile produce the content we produce. Many thanks for your support. Josh Solomon is a freelance writer and touring bassist living in Los Angeles.

He has an affinity for all things analog. When not onstage, you can find him roaming around Southern California shooting film and humming a tune. Why no mention of the colorplus ? Hi Konstantinos. I have personally shot some Color Plus. Thanks again, and happy shooting. Great article. I have shot all of these films. I think one that should be mentioned is Kodak Color plus but it may be the same as Kodak Gold I go through phases with black and white film.

I will say the film I have used the most is trix, its the ak47 of film. Lately I have been shooting Tmax pushed a stop or two and have been enjoying the look more. Interesting in my negative developing phone app Tmax pushed to is the same time as developed at box speed. This says something about its incredible exposure latitude.

Would have liked to see a blurb on Kodak Pro Image as well. Hi Stanley. Thanks for reminding me. Two of our writers are located in areas where Pro Image is sold, and one of them was just recently working on a full film profile of that film.

Once that is done we will update this guide with the information! Thanks again! Too me its like a wider latitude Portra which in my experience is quite narrow. We just need to sit down and figure out a schedule that will work and think of some ways to improve the format for viewers.

Working on it! Thanks for your interest. My go-tos are Tri-X and Portra Too saturated and hard to scan. Check out Kodak ProImage as well. Technically Cinestill T is also a Kodak film! Great to have this film overview! Ektar and Portra are among my favorites color negative films! Kodak Pro Image is a very nice one to use as well. I know this would be a lot of work, but a future article showing the same scene photographed by the different films at the same time would really illustrate their differences.

I really love the Ektar Easy to scan, super sharp, virtually grainless and beautiful colors. It enables vintage film cameras for results they could never achieve before. Thanks Kodak!!! Thanks Kodak again for still offering that classic emulsion. Ultramax shot at and developed normal is the most under rated film out there. I have yet to hear anyone avoiding it. Then why not go for the black and white film!

Shoot roll after roll of breath-taking, ultra-elegant shots. Or get experimental to achieve unpredictable, mysterious or even spooky results! The redscale technique came about when crazy photographers would load a film backward and shoot through a semi-transparent layer on the back. The result was gorgeous splashes or fiery reds, oranges, and yellows! If you don't have a stock of the Lomography Redscale XR , you can make your own redscale film by following this tipster or use color gels.

Slide film also known as E6 film or X-Pro film is basically an alternative type of film to color negative and is the type of film to use for E-6 processing — E6 is the name of the solution used to develop slide. If you want your shots to be bright and vivid and dripping with in-your-face color, give slide film a whirl!

Generally used by professionals who prefer its better tone reproduction, slide film is also popular with many Lomographers. The reason why? You might get lucky and have a roll of the Lomography X-Pro film with you, so you better check out your stock! Just like milk, rolls of film come with an expiry date! Film can usually still be used many years after the expiry date passes.

It used to be available at Wally mart for cheap but not so any more. Try a different lab. I have recent examples of the difference a lab can make in my flickr stream. Check the tags The stuff from the noritsu looks shitty. Last edited: Sep 24, For the sunny parts of Hawai'i, I would use Ektar. If you find that too saturated, try Portra Unfortunately both have been discontinued it's been a while since i've been there.

For midday at the beach, try using a polarizing filter. I find these filters very useful around water. I currently shoot because I picked up 7 packs of the stuff from Walgreens around town.

Happy hunting! Sep 25, All images on Ultramax I scanned this image at DPI recently and had it printed at 11x14 and it looks kinda blurry close up.

Not sure if I didn't clean the negative properly before printing, but you can't see the grain much, just blur close up: Here's an image that turned out pretty well. I didn't print it but it seems like almost the same lifeguard house as BAC posted! Here are the worst examples that I have, I'm guessing they somehow got hideously overexposed somehow.

What happened here? The reason I don't use speed film is it doesn't offer that much better speed difference over , and the grain isn't that much of a difference either.

So I generally stick to or