Plaster and tile tool

->>>> Click Here to Download <<<<<<<-

The well known optician Tom Waineo advocated making plaster-based grinding tools. His method of attaching the tiles to the plaster substrate utilized paraffin wax as the bonding agent. I have used his method and found it to have both advantages and drawbacks. Here is a description of my implementation of the Waineo technique and my experiences with using such tools. As all ATMs soon discover, there are many different ways to do each of the tasks required for grinding your own mirror.

Making a grinding tool is no different. For smaller mirrors up to about 10 inches diameter, using a solid glass tool often works out best -- especially for the beginner. When attempting larger optics, however, the availability of even plate glass for a full sized tool becomes a problem.

Most amateurs will resort to making their own grinding tools once they get above about 12 inch diameter mirrors. The late Tom Waineo described a method of making grinding tools that was a little different from the methods usually seen in use by amateurs. I first came across his methods on CompuServe quite a few years ago.

He used plaster based tools and attached the grinding tiles using a combination of window screening and paraffin wax. Paraffin wax may be obtained from many hobby stores and is used for making candles. Over in the paint dept, get some plaster of paris and plaster sealer. Next a small piece of fiberglass window screen and some epoxy.

Cover the mirror with vasoline and lay on thin plastic from a trash bag or a dry cleaner bag. Wrap around a cardboard dam 2 inches higher than the mirror. Fill with plaster and pull off when set. It will slide easy. Place tool in oven at the lowest setting but turning temp dial until light comes on and about F.

Leave in overnight with door barely open to let out moisture. When masking tape sticks on, it is ready to seal. Cut some pieces out of the tile square until it fits the diameter. Epoxy window screen to the back. Apply in blobs and a couple times until the screen is covered over.

Heat the plaster again and wrap around a masking tape dam. Brush on hot paraffin wax to a thick layer. When you heat the plaster, heat the tile the same time. Place the hot tile screen down on the wax. When cooled a little place mirror on top. After the tool is cool, remove mirror and pour on more wax to fill the grooves a little. Wipe off any excess wax. After finished grinding, you can heat the tile with a heat pad or torch and peel off, scrape off wax, and make a pitch lap.

I have reused my tools for many mirrors using this method. It is so routine to me that I may have left out small details. This article will take you through the process of making a tile-on-plaster grinding tool. It is loosely based on the Tom Waineo method with complications of my own added.

This method is not quick. It takes at least three or four days from start to finish. The process does result in tools that look, feel, and work just the way I like. Only you can judge if this method will meet your needs. Chances are, you will find something that can be adapted to your own preferences, just as I adapted Tom Waineo's methods to suit mine. When working on a larger mirror, it is common to do the hogging out of the rough curve with a relatively small sub-diameter tool.

Such is the case with my After the bulk of the glass has been often rather crudely removed, a new tool is then used for the remainder of rough and fine grinding. The real grinding work is always done with tile or other very hard material attached to a substrate. There are a number of materials and methods commonly used to make this new grinding tool substrate. I have used wood, cement, and plaster at one time or another and find that all can work well.

Each has its advantages and disadvantages when used as a substrate. The key to successful grinding are to use a very hard grinding surface medium such as porcelain unglazed, fully vitrified floor tile, glass, or metal squares mounted on a rigid, waterproof substrate. It cannot be overemphasized that the substrate be stiff and not change shape during fine grinding.

Any material that can absorb moisture during fine grinding may be subject to deterioration or warping. The best substrate material in this regard may be a non-ferrous metal plate. Metals such as aluminum, stainless steel, or titanium would all serve well. Wooden tools can also be used. Extreme measures should be taken with wooden tools to ensure that no moisture can get into the wood base. You should also only use plywood for tools. Solid wood stock can change shape over time even when sealed properly.

Any warping of a wooden grinding tool base is very likely to cause trouble during the last stages of fine grinding. Even worse, such problems may not become apparent until you are well into polishing your mirror. That is not the time to have to make and break in a new grinding tool. For hogging, on the other hand, a quickly made wood tool can work great. While hogging a deep curve in a large mirror, we do not need to be overly concerned with the tool changing shape.

I have had good luck using cement tool substrates. Both anchor and patching cements have been used on occasion. These are available in many hardware stores and are used to anchor bolts or patch holes in concrete. They are made of nearly pure cement and contain no coarse sand or gravel. Because of this, they are very fine textured and make fine, smooth, waterproof bases for tile tools. I tend to be a little more paranoid and thoroughly seal all my tool substrates, though the cement tools were very fine textured and didn't really look like they would shed particles during use.

Plaster is also a very common substrate material for grinding tools. My first experience with plaster was not pleasant, though I experienced few real problems. I used a patching plaster for walls obtained at a local hardware store. The plaster did not cure as hard as I would have liked, had a very disagreeable musty smell, and contained a mould that continued to grow even after being completely sealed inside the tool.

It ended up being colored like fine Italian marble but worked okay as a grinding tool base. This is also called Buff Stone and is a pleasure to work with. It is a form of dental molding plaster. The photographs accompanying this article depict my most recent use of this plaster to make a In addition to Hydrocal, USG also markets products known as Ultracal and Hydrostone, which many other amateurs have used with great success.

The materials required to make a grinding tool using this method are listed in the table below. It is best to assemble everything required for each stage before jumping into the actual work.

The procedure described below gives details of how and when these materials are needed. In addition, the following tools and utensils are required.

Very often, the resourceful ATM can make do with tools on hand for jobs such as this. Innovation and substitution are the two major skills possessed by all ATMs.

Undoubtedly, many of you will improve on this procedure. The first step in preparing the tool base is preparation of the form in which the plaster or cement will be molded. Since we are attempting to match the existing curve on the hogged mirror, we will use the mirror itself as a part of the form.

The photographs in this article show a sub-diameter tool being cast. In this case a Making a full size tool using this process is actually much easier. Several steps may be skipped. Those simpler portions of the task will be discussed but not depicted by the accompanying photographs. The first thing we need to do is protect the mirror from the plaster or cement. If poured directly onto the mirror's rough surface, we chance having the tool stick securely to the mirror.

I usually use household aluminum foil as a release barrier. Other materials like baking parchment or waxed paper will also work, though I have had wrinkles develop in waxed paper in the past.

The aluminum foil works well and the only wrinkles are those present before the plaster is poured. I start by placing the mirror face up on my work surface and placing shims under the edge as required to ensure that it is quite level.

I always check this with a carpenter's level just to be sure. This important step ensures that the tool will be a uniform thickness when completed. Having a couple of spare bolt on blades is always a good idea, they are available from Amazon if required. Combine this SDS Max floor scraper with a suitable power tool and it really is the best tool for removing tiles, especially thick floor tiles.

Using the SDS Max system for connection to power drills that are capable of performing a chiseling effect, this 6 inch wide chisel is definitely an essential tool to have in your collection when it comes to tile removal. This 8 lb American made Floor scraper measures a mighty 25 x 6 x 1 inches and is securely bolted in position, replacement blades are available, but these things are tough and can take a lot of work before a new blade is needed.

This curved, angled high performance tile chisel will amaze you at how easy it makes the job of removing floor and wall tiles. This is the best tool for removing tiles when used with a power tool, the first thing you notice about this wall and floor tile remover is the cranked angle that this tool is set at. It really does make tile removal a whole lot easier being set at this angle, it helps to avoid digging into surfaces such as drywall or stucco and causing surface damage.

This SDS Plus chisel is suitable for professional use and also DIY enthusiasts and with an overall length of 7 inches, that provides a 6. CO-Z Chisel Set. If you are looking for the best tool for removing tiles but would like a kit option which gives you a variety of chisels for tile removal or for work on concrete, brick, or mortar then, look no further, this is a quality set of chisels that will help you with your task. If you are looking for a high quality, powerful cordless drill for your ceramic, porcelain and other tile removal jobs, or for any drilling jobs you may need doing too, then this is the best cordless drill to go for.

This DeWalt battery-operated, cordless rotary hammer drill delivers a very impressive 2. Bosch EVS. If you have thick floor tiles that you need removing and are planning on working on a large area, then this is a drill that you should give serious consideration too. Perfect for chipping, breaking up blocks of cement or concrete, ceramic and porcelain tile removal and any other tough material that needs breaking apart.

This volt, 13 amp electric demo hammer weighs just This volt electric, corded high-performance drill has a powerful 13 amp motor delivering the power. With 4 function modes available to choose from, hammer, chiseling, hammer drill, and drill only options to help with various jobs that you have planned. Delivering blows per minute to help you work effectively and efficiently on the toughest of jobs, and features a built-in safety clutch to protect the drill from overload.

Firstly, before you start working on tile removal make sure you wear the correct, fit for purpose PPE personal protective equipment. Strong cut resistant gloves must be used to protect your hands and safety boots to protect your feet, and if dust is being created from the work then you should also wear a suitable face mask. The best way to remove ceramic wall or floor tiles is to start off by working your way along the row of tiles from one exposed edge if that is possible.

The next stage is to gently tap the chisel with a small hammer, moving the chisel under the tile as you tap, a small 2 lb sledgehammer is usually a good working size to loosen the tile away from the adhesive and the wall or floor. If you have not got access to the edge of the tile then you will need to brake a tile so that you can get the handheld chisel in to start removing the rest of the tiles.

Sponge for decorative effects. Sponge Float Red. Sponge Float for Velvet. Sponge Float for Dilavato. Spalter — Small. Spalter — Medium. Spalter — Big. Small brush. Five sizes: 40, 60, 80, , mm Scrapers in stainless steel. This tool is used to remove all the pigment material from jars or other small containers. Rubber Paddle. Plastic trowel. Stainless steel trowel with oval shape for works in cupolas or curved areas.

Oval Trowel Small. Nonwoven fabric sheets. Mini Trowel. Mini Trapezoid Trowel. Mini roller. Metallic Trowel XL. Long Handle Brush. Handle for microfiber roller. Handle for roller. Handle for mini roller 10 cm.

Handle for mini roller. Composed of 3 parts: extendable handle, plastic support for the felt and microfiber felt. Floor waxing pad. Spare part for the floor waxing tools. Microfiber felt 45 mm. Floor Waxing Felt. You will find that each wet will take about minutes and grinding will show faster results. Once you reach Grit, don't fill all the channels with abrasive. Instead mix some abrasive with water and 2 drops of liquid soap.

This mixture can be applied directly on the tool. First remove the masking tape from the side and rinse the tool in a wet-bucket. Now clean all the channels with a toothbrush under running water.

Change the toothbrush after every second grinding stage. Since writing the original description of the process many years have passed and I have made plenty of tools in the mean time. Many new techniques and materials have become available and, among other things, it has become popular among ATMs to embed the tiles directly in the plaster thus bypassing the step to glue tiles on the plaster base.

I will describe that process in continuation. New types of plaster have become available for the telescope maker and some even use solid granite tools. Embedding the tiles directly into the plaster has the advantage that the tool can be used instantly after fabrication, as we bypass the gluing steps and curing times. It would seem that this technique is a great time saver and that might be true, if you do all your grinding by hand. However, I found that those tools require quite a bit of maintenance since by very nature of the process of embedding the channels between the tiles are closed and therefore the tool acts very much like a solid glass tool unless we open the channels between the tiles with a Dremel tool or similar.

Scratches are also becoming an issue, as the plaster is in contact with the glass and the tool-rim has to be beveled very well to avoid scratching your mirror. All in all, I found that time saved at production is offset by maintenance time and grinding problems and I don't use that technique anymore.

However, I include a description of the process:. The next example is a tool with glued tiles. I use marble, glass or porcelain bathroom tiles that are fixed to a matrix and are usually sold in squares 40cmx40cm.

The glue of choice is slow 24h curing water-resistant epoxy that has to be applied generously on the plaster surface. Obviously a plaster tool can be used perfectly as a pitch polishing tool. I usually pour the tools for laps after finishing grinding with grit. The tool should be dry before pouring the pitch and rubbing it with turpentine will make the pitch stick better.

Finally, I would like to present a special type of tool that I use for curve generating on the M-o-M grinding machine:. Related Links: Protechno Durguix dental stone.

Tile on Plaster grinding tool Original article Update Original article from Traditionally a second glass disc of same or smaller diameter than the mirror is used to grind the curve into the substrate.

Advantages: You can save your second blank to make another mirror. The channels in the tool minimize the danger of seizing. You can grind faster and more efficiently by using less abrasives.

For big mirrors, the weight of the tool can be reduced.