Nikon tc-16a af teleconverter

I also have a D A modified TC pairs well with it also. An unmodified TC does not. I think all the modern digital bodies are the same. As I noted, it works pretty good when I stick my PN extension tube in the middle; its a bit unconventional to have the tube between the TC and lens, but it works for me. Okay, a converted TCA makes better sense to me now.

However, would it now NOT work on a film body such as my N90X, or would other functions such as metering still work? Would it potentially short out something?

That's not a big deal, because I've probably got a bigger problem with leaky AA batteries in the N90X from disuse! You asked if I have dismantled a TCa. Yes, I have. There is really no room, or way that I saw, to alter it to extend the range of focus.

The mechanical part of the lens is pretty well integrated. I would not attempt it. I cant answer your question about the film body. I have an old N body, but I've never tried it with the TC. I doubt it would work, but that is simply a guess on my part. A friend gave me her TCA to try A friend has used TCA with D on first generation manual focus mm f5.

I saw flight shots he produced is simply same quality. His electronics knowledge allows him to reprogram the TCA , every focus point on the D is also being fine tuned with the 3 screws underneath the camera bottom cover. Very cool. That's what I had in mind, too. I'd like to see some of those results. Does your friend have a website or links to a gallery? I spent a lot of money buying used TCA because I was trying to modify them and I kept screwing up. I finally got it right and have a working one that I used with a D and D a total of once on each camera.

It did a pretty good job though. No vignette with it worked well with stationary subjects and walking birds animals etc. It only works on screw drive auto focus cameras D D , so focus can be less efficient on faster moving subjects.

If you have or want to have a manual focus lens made longer and have an auto focus range, it does work. Lenses have to be brought into a "range" the auto focus can work in, meaning it wont go from close to infinty without turning the focus manually. I used mine for 4 years, until I go the Its worth the price to me. It would sure have come in handy day before yesterday for me because I needed more reach plus I needed AF in a major way with the mm lens.

I ended up switching to the zoom lens and it came out fine. I'll give it another shot with my cameras. Maybe I'll just use DX mode. I never did come back to this post till now. Hope you and others are still interested to see my friends' works. Those are amazing photos! Please say, "Thank you! I've got an AF Tamron 1. We dig into the detail The Nikon Z mm F2. With a versatile focal length range and a fast aperture for low light photography and blurry backgrounds, this lens promises sharp imagery and smooth bokeh with minimal aberrations.

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Forum Threaded view. Jan 16, Parry Johnson's gear list: Parry Johnson's gear list. Reply to thread Reply with quote Complain. Ps a link on how to do it. Reply Reply with quote Reply to thread Complain.

Just to add to Phil's comment above: If you don't fancy trying to adapt the tca for use on your camera's, you can often pick them up on ebay No matter what, it's still a pretty good 1. What about the Df, D or D4 series? Same thing? Parry Johnson wrote: I've seen some of the modification links before, but since I want to use a TCA with other bodies, I don't want to change it.

Phil, I'm just curious, but have you ever completely dismantled a tca? Phil wrote: Parry Johnson wrote: I've seen some of the modification links before, but since I want to use a TCA with other bodies, I don't want to change it. I just tried it on my D with a 50 1. I understand the prefocus and focus range limitations.

I have a lovely Sigma F2. The modification looks wonderful. I plan to get one for use on Nikon mm f4 P and D Thank you for your response and research on this modification. Grazie mille! It does show a bit more contrast stopped down one more stop. I have nikon D and nikkor MF 85mm f1. I did the pin switch and used the copper tape method to redirect signal from new pin 6 to the old pin 3. Not only did I not get any AF action but the lens reports as a manual lens on my d, no chip detected.

Subsequent research suggested an unmodified tc 16a would not be compatible with this camera. Did I brick the electronics? I have fully modified the TCa. The little IC pins were set for the mm F4 selection. Great results with mm F2 AIs and mm F2. The mm F2. It works well for the D, D and D If you do the mods yourself Please follow the instructions about using a tupperware to keep the teeny tiny springs from flying all over. Also be very patient during reassembly. YOU will get it back together.

Thank you very much Oliver…! I made the pin changes like you teach us, and have an excellent result, all right with the auto focus.. I read all your specification about changes on the camera controls on the D and later. I use all MF Nikon mm F2. What can I do for use the TCA autofocus and at the same time have control aperture with use of the lens ring..?

Thank you again, for this excellent and generous publication. Kinds regards Roberto. Hello, great site, thank you for sharing your knowledge! Or is this impossible? Perhaps the diameter would be to small, or removing the glass would cause damages …?

You need to pre-focus your lens manually, and then half -press the shutter, for the TC to be able to auto-focus. I am incapable in doing the mod by myself. It works with my Nikon 50 1. The lens only move back and forth once as if there is no lens attached to it when I half pressed the shutter button. I already changed the camera setting to Aperture Ring. The aperture display shows f4. Laurent, I was thinking that too, but it does not work. Camera does not autofocus with Dandellion chip.

BUT as you expected maximum aperture problem is remained. The chip can be programmed at will afterwards! Did somebody do that? I sold off my old mm my only birding lens as I came across a manual mm f2. At the same time, I know of a photography shop near my place who still has 1 tc16a with them, though unmodified.

I have always wanted a mm f2. I thought it was done, yeah, I thought I was having my dream lens combo…. I was so frustrated…nothing is more frustrating than having a great lens but having inaccurate AF. I am having accurate AF! I really thank you geniuses who have started, and contributed to this thread! What happens if you remove all the pins and springs? Does it then simply become a 1.

Hi, I just got a TC16A and decided to modify it myself but already have a question. After removing the two screws that fasten the pin module to the lens I could not remove it and did not want to force it. Do I need to remove any other screws such as the screws in the lens mount? Thanks for any advise. What an amazing conversion you have discovered Oliver..

Roy As stated on the mir. Correct exposure may not be obtained using these accesories. Can you supply a list of bodies that the tc16a will work with without any modifications. I have D2Xs,,D Also will it work in manual on F2s? Of course Nikon probably added quite a bit of protection circuitry to prevent anything from happening…. KC: Your aperture range does not match the lens you set the TC to be.

Do you have any idea or experience as to what this could be? Any thoughts? OK update on the previous post is that after changing the aperture from Sub-Command dial to Aperture ring control, the Fee error is gone in M mode.

However, the aperture is showing as F 1, and the focal length is 8mm. But all that said the really good news is that the lens is focusing well by itself, though I have to guide it closer to the focusing range. Btw, do I still need to do the chip or will shud I just use it in manual mode and enjoy the nice macro photography…….

All replies will be welcome. Hi guys, Thank u for the lovely write up. I managed to buy a tca locally and did the two mods i. Now when I mount the teleconvertor on the Ds, it shows the focal length and autofocuses i. CAn someone point to what is going wrong…. Would appreciate feedback. Regarding Nikkor mm F4. I own a Nikon mm F4 AI manual focus lens. I need to move the infinity focus out slightly to accommodate a modified Nikon TCA autofocus converter.

The problem that I am having is that with the converter, I cannot achieve focus beyond some distant point. Just a little more might do. However, I am not sure which screws to unscrew on the lens to adjust it. I have done this on other lenses, but this one has me baffled. Anyone out there with experience with this lens and the infinity adjustment????

Nikon suggest using the sub command dial. As Oliver points out in the beginning of this thread the TCA on the D the aperture must be controlled by the aperture ring and not by the sub command dial. The same is true for the D and the D Anyway I have not been able to get it working until now. Any thoughts or any experience? Dear Oliver after I read so many comment I basic know connet pin 3 to pin 6.

But cpu part still misunderstander. Can you give some advice. But this is not possible with the modified TCA. Hence the Live View function is impossible. Oliver: Thanks so much. Have you any idea what that might be? Nikon has always been quite conservative in their language about compatibility of various combinations.

Not even the D3 Series support it anymore, and no other Series ever supported it. So only use it at your own risk. This means you have to prefocus manually, and then the TCA does the fine-tuning. This is really helpful with this lens, because it is really hard to focus manually. The focus is very sensitive to small movments of the focus ring.

The TCA easily does the fine tuning with spot on focus, either with phase detector, or with live view. The other question is whether someone already achieved AF with the Dandelion chip. This works pretty well. First, what an impressive array of creative and helpful folks with steady soldering hands!

Manual focus and exposure auto or manual WILL be accurate in most configurations. Would the already AF autofocus work properly once attached to the modified TC16a? Would my D no manual aperture control lens work properly on a modified TC16a on the D? I could not make it work so gave it to my son Mike to look at. He has a Ds. Had the same result but found that if he manually set the A1 aperature pin to f11 it worked just as it was supposed to giving correct readings and taking great photos.

He is sending it back to me with a pin installed to set the ring as it is installed. The menu text is from the D — as far as I remember the D has semilar settings. I have cut the p and p and get correct aperture reading in A or M mode. It takes some practice to use the focus ring correct. I have found the TCA very useful getting birds in focus — even birds in flight. It will attemp to focus but in a very narrow range. If I focus on an object behind my subject focus occurs.

If I focus on an object in front of the subject a focus motion happens but focus is not achieved. I have been studying your photo of the CPU. It looks like I need to desolder the top second from left and the top 3rd from left. I am confused because the photo link in comment 79 shows a different location. I am not sure which pins on the CPU to lift. I know they are 12 and 13 but how do I locate them. Something info for you. I lost one spring but took a contact spring from an old Times Ironman watch.

It came out nearly perfect. Han: The dandelion chip is set to AF as default, so if you changed it status, it now says the TC 16a is a manual focus lens. I have chipped all my manual focus lenses with the dandelion chip. I plan to use contacts from an old body and connect pin by pin from the lens to the body.

In that way I can get correct exif info for the actual lens. I just found this page. What are you gaining with the modification? Thanks for posting this instruction. I just did it as per your instructions — took me a while to work out which were pins and to cut though. I have a nikon d and using a mm f3. Very nice. Thanks again. Autofocus works well. Exposure metering also after cutting the pin P Thank you very, very much Olivier.

I have tried taking the chip out of a TCA and installing the Dandelion in. The in-body motor of my camera does not turn the TCA motor. Could it be if I had blocked the contact 5 by using the cello tape to isolate the new contact 6 on the conversion? The aperture indications on my S5 are wrong, so I just ignore them and use the aperture ring values instead.

BTW a f2. The serial number of my TCA is Hi Oliver. Thank you very much for all your time and effort I really appreciate it. The problem is front focusing , on both bodies and with all the lenses I try it with. The main lens I want to use it is Nikkor F3,5 Ai. I read all discussions , but some of it is heavy for my english and electronics knowledge! Can you help me with simple advise how to fix it, if possible.

They are just too busy for these small things. The Focus I always get is in front of the image I am focusing. Regards -Peter. I just saw the Dandelion chip web pages. Very interesting. I too would like to know if anyone has tried it. The only deviations from your instructions are that I made two groves on the back of the pin holder for the wire to pass through, and I used a 1.

Actually I used an 1. As expected, some pre-focusing is needed with fixed lenses. However, with the Nikon mm f4. AF was lightningly fast too. It would be great to have the following :. I think programming the 4-bit processor would be an easy job for someone with the knowhow. Did anyone try to replace the chip with a Dandelion chip? Yea I just changed the command dial to aperture ring. Only then works on my D D works anyway.

Thanks everybody for contributing to this. God bless. Planned to modify it. I tried attaching it to my Nikon mm f8 mirror. Could anybody help? Just modified the TC16a only moved pin 3 to 6.

It works fine. Can someone please mark the m inthe photo of the front circuit print? Thanks Bruno. Tazman, thanks for the Link — the thread has become even more interesting than the last time I saw it, it was revived in , and some valuable info was added!

Thanks for this sweet mod. First of all, the modification is by no means an easy task. Do only attempt with the right equipment and only if you feel confident with it.

In my case, even though I was being super careful I managed to loose one of the springs. Luckily I found one to replace it in an old printer. After the mod the lens does not communicate the aperture to the camera. This generates an error which can be solved by changing a setting in the D to allow the camera shot and control the aperture using aperture ring.

This lets you shot but the aperture is still not read by the camera so forget about the light metering. Far from ideal. Now, the pseudo autofocus; yep, it worked, kind of. When it finished the mod and tried for the first time I was quite impressed it worked at all!

I get the idea of pseudo autofocus, approximate manually and then use it, but still. It was obviously out when compared to my focusing by eye manually. I was testing this on f1. From the other comments, I gather that the results can vary depending on the type of lens and camera. In my case it is back to the way it was. At least I can use the converter in manual focus which is fine for me.

I could not wait more ;- and did the whole mod. I like the partial autofocus, you still get the feeling of MF, together with precise AF in the end.

On the D it even works for birds in flight! Thanks for all these precious info. This is so rare that one can do DIY on photographic equipment! On the other hand, is similar focal length important? I mean, the TC AF mechanics are probably very different compared to the , so is it of real help for the body focus calculations?

Can I use it in any way for completing the TCA modification? Thanks for the great discussion…rgds Carl. Giles, well, almost. They are all relative to the max. Aperture of the lens, and not min. Aperture, so that it can electronically control the full aperture range. This is because the camera always meters at max aperture, then stops down by a number of stops, relative to the max aperture. With the setting, you might want to set the focal length to as long as possible mm using pin P P P P settings described in comment 49 by Murphy.

Oliver — The lens was modified by a previous owner; I was perhaps a little careless in my choice of language, for which I apologise.

Regarding item 9 — thanks for pointing me back at it, but the finer points still escaped me. Forcing the aperture ring over another millimetre or so seems to make the D work, metering and exposing more or less correctly in low light.

So, back to the soldering iron and take P low instead. So why use AF? Unfortunately I have a heavily astigmatic focusing eye and even with good spectacles my manual focus technique is best described as hit and miss.

I should perhaps point out that my background is in electronics and communications, rather than photography. I take, and publish, a number of quite boring engineering photos in any given year but for me the camera is just a tool to get a recognisable image into a magazine — rather like a word processor is a tool for capturing the text that surrounds the image. That said, I do quite enjoy fooling around and amusing myself with my cameras, and am a sucker for available-light stuff.

Read comment number 9 again for the details. Before you go and solder anything, try moving the aperture index tab on the D with your fingers, or with forcepts or something. And if that works, try using a lens with the correct number of stops. Can anyone help? I have a pre-modified TCa that apparently worked fine on a D Can anyone make any useful suggestions please? Arjen: I will be very careful towards the method of adjusting mirror angle, since the reason of back focus is not there, if the body can actually work well with other lens exp.

The waveforms of serial interface of lens chip is quite simple as can be found in the NEC upda manual, it can be downloaded from the net, or you may leave an email address so I can send you one. By which the patterns you have mentioned can be decoded manually or automatically. Also I am very interested to do such decoding and analysis with you, so it is very pleasure if you can envoy them to me via murphyli [at] [dot] com. Thank you for your efforts in advance! Since my lens is a mirror type aka reflex lens the risk on sperical aberrations is small.

But to rule that one out I tried the TCA on my And guess what; exactly same behaviour. But now I could see that the deviation is focal length related.

On 18mm is almost not noticable, going to it becomes clearer. Being curious about my other lenses I put all of them to the test with the test chart. It showed that actually all had some degree of back focus. A lot less than before but still… Thanks for the link to the french site Murphy!

Another issue I have been considered is how you can correct the EXIF values on focal length and aperture. The easiest way I have found is to use the excellent freeware exiftool.

If you are a Windows user you can simply download the. Camera will possibly compensate this error by adjust the offset accordingly with a lens, exp. This is because the camera compensates the focus in the wrong direction so that makes the focusing plan even away from the desired distance. It is not too complicated as far as I have read. I think it is possible to make a customized chip with so many combinations of focal length, aperture etc. With enough luck we can find a suitable configuration.

First of all many thanks for all the usefull information eveybody gathered so far and especially to Oliver who started with this!! Everything works nicely BUT…. I found also like some others here that although it focuses quickly and gives the beep, the focus point is always just behind where you point.

So I tried all greycodes for the setting but no change there. Secondly I tried the setting but also there no luck. Focus remains off position. Nathan, you were right. This makes the chip sais mm to the body. Murphy, thanks for your great observations. I have a question about your Dec. You stated that in order to get a mm focal you remove the pin for p, p and p The other pins, p, p and p are shorted to ground.

What does that mean? Do I disconnect them and run a wire to pin 20 gnd? Second time was a charm. I got it working. I ended up soldering a wire to the spring.

Since I had extra parts I decided to see what would happen if I left a pin in position 3 along with position 6. Plus it appeared to hunt and not lock focus on anything.

So having pin 3 and pin 6 confuses the camera. I obviously took pin 3 out and now the converter works again. Just an update. It worked great…periodically.

Reluctantly I opened the case and when I did all heck broke loose. In the end the metal tore off the ribbon and that was the end of my show. In fact, I also ended up losing a spring in the process. I have a new TCa coming in the mail. After several dedicate tests on TCA, I noticed that its focusing accuracy is still not as perfect as expected.

Especially when it is working with my mm f2. Today I find a tool that can extract so many details of EXIF data from file, that might help us find a way to solve the problem above or even further. But 0. I guess that the distance has relation to the focusing algorism, and if so, a proper parameter might able to make focusing more accurate. My suggestion is find out how the distance is configured by the chip probably gray coded like zoom as well.

P P P80 P81 I guess. If it is not as simple as expected, I prefer hacking the chip by observing the waveforms through the lens contacts, and program a workable MCU to replace it. Thanks for sharing. My two cents: This is the way i did the mod.

Instead of soldering the thin wire, I drew a conductive path with a conductive paint on the back of the flexible PCB and a conductive area for the spring. Jean: Exactly, the focal length mod dose almost correct the bias on Nikon D That is to say, focal length modification will correct the bias as far as a same amount. However, I noticed that with longer focal length configuration mm , the TC seems more sensitive to low luminance scenario, other wise the element in TC bounces forward and back more likely during the focusing, especially when mount with a long lens exp.

When mount with a sorter lens exp. I did the above mod. Any hint or am I missing something here? Hi, thanks you for posting this wonderful mod. I have followed successfully your instruction.

Any suggestions? Does the focal lenght mod correct this issue? Thanks again for your great job!! Murphy: Thanks for that Info!

I have successfully modified my TCA followed those instructions above. Thanks to all. Alex and Bruce: I have solved the miss focus problem. It is true that camera body will adjust its focus calculation according to the focal length. With basic modification of just change the pin order, I get constant focus offset in front of the subject.

The Gray Code accordingly with mm focal length is: P P P P 1-no connection 0-short to ground vs focal length 70mm 75mm Approx 81mm Approx 85mm Approx 94mm Approx mm Approx mm Approx mm Approx mm Approx mm Approx mm mm mm Approx mm Approx mm Approx mm Further more, with the configuration the camera can control the aperture via dial, and can work on A, S, P and Auto modes, with matrix metering and build in TTL flash etc.

Those tests are carried out on D80 and D50 body. Thomas: I think it will work, the metering that is. But with this modification, the TCA becomes a CPU lens — or rather pretends to be one — so the camera will do the metering as it would with any other CPU lens, no matter what lens you put in front of the TC. I was really hoping to try one of the compact mirror lenses would this allow me to do so?

Or does it still have to be a CPU lens? I also cut the P and P When the is lens wide open I get FEE error. So I had to go to the menu and changed my aperture to be controlled by the aperture ring.

Wide open it reads 4 instead of 4. It stil works with F4 and F5 also. One day I would like to be able to control the aperture with the dial. I know you guys posted a lot of info here, will read thru again to see if the solution is there.

I was thinking to buy a new AF TC but will stick to this one instead. I am very exited about this. It would also try to auto focus with the Ronikon mm. I know i will not get tack sharp pics with this lens but hey that is a lot of reach. The only complain i got about this TC is that the view finder gets quite dark. The soldering requires a somewhat fine soldering iron.

I have a TC 16A that i came with my F4. It did work on F5. Anyway I ran into this website and have the TC already open. Well will have to run to home depot to get some tools the drill bit. I can barely see the spring. Any tips, suggestions? Please help me out with any suggestions you have to make this work it as close to as the real combo i wanna use.

I want to use this TC with f4. It will have the same features and limitations on the old cameras that it has on the new cameras. Sivasankar: Sorry to hear that.

You might be able to fix the tear by scratching the surface of the traces on each side of the tear, and bridging it with some solder. I was very careful with the gold springs, soldering, etc. Many thanks Olivier for this modification guide. I followed all the steps and it seems that it jut works! This lens is not only MF but fixed focus. Add the modified TCA and change the reversed 50mm by a reversed 28mm to recover the original FOV thus compensating the 1.

Does live-view not work at all, or just focussing during live-view? The job is done! The exif declare as expected Thanks Oliver and thanks to All. But… the live view is not usable. This anomaly was also noted by others? The autofocus behaviour seems correct I used an unmodified one with my F4s once upon a time. However, the focus is consistently off by a small amount. The focus adjustment feature of a D I borrowed was insufficient to correct the problem, and I suspect though have not tried that this would be the case here as well.

The images obtained from autofocus with TCa are sufficiently off from critical focus that the images are unacceptable. Oliver — this is speculative, but it feels like the autofocus systems may be slightly out of sync between the TC and the camera. Aside from the D focus adjustment, any thoughts on the possibility of a way to get the TC to speak the same distance as the camera?

Why should this be any different if they share the same cpu? BTW — thanks for this page in general. I would not have attempted the procedure without such a detailed walkthrough.

If you want to also control your aperture properly very advisable also modify the PCB. To disconnect pins P and P, melt the solder with your soldering iron, then lift the pin up. This way you can reconnect it at a later time if you want to. Very interesting discussion! Thanks Oliver and thanks to All….. Sorry for the bad English and many thanks to All again. Thanks for sharing the detailed steps to this modification.

Just wondering if this is an isolated case with my D, or whether anyone also has this problem…. As far as I know, the D1 series were not compatible with it either. This was made only for the F3AF and uses completely different AF-contacts, so there is no point in trying to convert it.

Hello Again. Yes, I agrre with you. I have just mounted an old tokina mm, completly manual and it went AF : It is really amazing. Marco Yes, this is completely normal. That is how the TCA has always worked, even on the older Cameras it was designed for.

Hi there. I would like to thank for this post. I have just performed the modification and it worked. I used an old DvD player wire, witch is realy thin.

MArco Pedrosa, Portugal. Nikon warns about the incompatability of the unmodified TCA with the newer cameras, so that alone is reason enough not to leave pin 3 connected, if you plan on using it on the newer cameras.

The modification is the best of both worlds: after the mod, the TC also works on older cameras, just like it does on the newer ones. Thank you, Oliver. Would you happen to know if you can use both pin 3 and pin 6 in conjunction?

The semi AF works well, and metering is perfect with AI coupling. The camera seizes the position of the aperture ring, displays that how many stops over full open, M and A modes work.

With my oder body, D70, it does not work. The CPU in the Lens or in our case the TC which pretends to be a lens tells the camera its ID, its current zoom setting and current focal setting if applicable. Or you can remove the CPU alltogether, and enter the data manually, but of course, you will also lose AF functionality.

On the D and I guess the D you can tell the camera the lens focal length and max aperture and the camera LCD readout will show the appropriate aperture. Will this be the same regardless if I do the P and P modification?

The TCA just passes this through. The camera always keeps this spring-loaded aperture lever at its maximum position, so that the lens is wide open while you meter, focus and compose the shot. Moving the lever will only change the aperture between the set aperture as the minimum setting and maximum aperture for metering, etc.

So if you want the camera to have full control over the aperture, you have to set the aperture ring to minimum aperture of the lens, which will make the full aperture range controllable by the aperture lever. This is what that little switch which you jammed is actually for: to check whether the aperture ring is set to minimum aperture. The electronic contact is made just by the TC, which pretends to be a lens. The exposure meter is not reflecting any change in the aperture setting.

With the TC 16A mounted. And there is no contacts on the lens side of the TC 16A. But on the D the exposure meter is working perfect and it possible to use the A-mode automatic exposure! Thank you for the very detailed descriptions! Of course you have to remember to set the aperture on the lens to minimum aperture.

Remove excess solder. That way the process is reversible. It worked like expected. Now the light metering system works perfect by transmitting the aperture through the AI-ring to the camera.

The aperture shown on the camera display and the EXIF data is correct. Only the EXIF data on the lens and focal length are false. The transmission of the aperture is not working on cameras like the D80 as there is no AI-ring.

I must emphasize that the job is very delicate. But be careful. Hey, guys — as I am in optics and not in electronics, this all seems very complicated to me. To disassemble and to perform the modifications are relatively easy stuff. The problem is to reassemble the thing and put everything in there, because the small wire you put make it dificult and after one paintaking hour I lose one small spring and leave it for all. Hard stuff my friend, hard stuff!

My above suggestion of changing the chips with a is therefore useless, as a simple pin-desoldering does the exact same thing. If someone wants to send me a broken lens, I will try it for you. If I am actually putting from cpu on the TC16a electric circuit. How to revise P10x or the P11x signals, may let len cpu report that minimum aperture to camera cpu, lets camera cpu be possible to transfer and to control aperture. Do you think it will work better if I follow the circuitry of the AF , and modify TC exactly like it.

Kim: yes, that would probably be an even better idea. But a complete chip would get rid of the limitations with the aperture selection to a certain extent.

However, since I do not have excellent DIY skills, I wonder whether it would do to take the contacts and chip from some other lens and put it in? I just wanted to thank you for posting this information, and to let you know that I successfully performed this conversion and now have a TCA working on my Nikon D Your email address will not be published.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Your interest: Unleashed Barcode Edition Press Yes, I would like to receive updates on Foolography, new products, special offers and news on photography and videography.

Information on the measurement of performance, the use of the mail service provider MailChimp, logging of the registration and your right of withdrawal, included in the consent, can be found in our privacy policy. Leave this field empty if you're human:. This is the front of the circuit print.

Just for your information: the circuit print continues on the left all the way to the connectors: the top circuit path top left pin of the IC connects to pin 1 the next lower one on left of the top resistor to pin 3, then the next one down pin 4, then pin 5, and the very bottom circuit path bottom right pin of the IC connects to pin 7.

This is an IC I found which seems to be compatible. Turn it anticlockwise by 90 degrees to have it in the same orientation as on the picture above front view. On the back all the connections are visible. Except for one difference, which is exactly what I was hoping for… Pin 3 on the TC which was out of place anyway is connected to the IC in the same way that Pin 6 on the AF lens is connected! Method A quick note to begin with: Most the feedback I get about this page is that the people tried this modification and lost one of the small golden springs.

This by the way is what the circuit print looks like at the other end. So I drilled a hole 1. I drilled it by hand, NOT with a Dremel or so, but just by rolling the drillbit between my thumb and index finger. It took a little longer, but gave me a much cleaner result. Now I soldered a little wire onto the little spring to electrically connect it to its old position on the circuit print.

Then put everything back together… Oops, one more problem… The contact on the circuit print for Pin 5 is a little too wide and our new pin 6 would touch it as well, which is not good… So I just covered that side of the contact with a little bit of cello-tape I know this is not perfect, but the best Idea I could think of to make the whole process more or less reversible.

NOW put everything back together.. And finished!!! So it is not possible to change the aperture at all. Tools used Philips No. Limitations OK, basically it works, but the use is very limited. Frank N. Will this work with the Z6 Camera? Mark Xu. Soren Klostergaard. Eric Budworth.