Abs p trap installation

The shape of the p-trap when installed this way takes advantage of the brachistochrone property of the cycloid shape. Many thanks for your help. I had a drain problem at my kitchen sink, and your information saved me a plumber call. Because of the location of the sink on the right with a garbage disposal relative to the second sink, a 45o pipe from the garbage disposal causes the y-connector to be lower than the drawing on the right in which my a is the same distance as your a.

My question is… How larger can b be Thanks! The deeper it is the more difficult to flush the trap. Buell, After receiving your response, I spent much more time researching the question than I should have. I should have spent my time wisely and taken my kids to the movies.

I did however find two prevalent requirements in local ordinances and state codes: 1 A distance that allows the trap to easily flush and not permit the release of waste odors My ignorant interpretation of complex legal jargon.

Although most plumbers offering online advice recommend less than 3 inches. My P trap on my washing machine discharge pipe appears to allow terrible sewer smell into my house after a load is washed.

Please help. I had my bathroom dual sinks replaced and did the installation of the p trap myself. Now I have a smell coming from sinks every time I use the faucets. Could there be some leveling issue with the P traps where water is allowing fumes to come back only during use? Thankful to see your experts sight has so many positive comments. I have a problem. A handy man hooked up a sink for me, and we are now getting sewer smells coming from the sink drain.

Here is a photo of the p-trap etc. One thing that is hard to see in the photo, is that the black pip coming from the wall is not level, it tilts downward out of the drywall until it connects with the white pipe. Hope you can help me figure out this problem. Well certainly the black pipe should slope toward the wall from the P-trap.

Odors would not be expected from this setup unless there is no sanitary tee fitting inside the wall resulting ins siphoning of the trap. In other words, the drain may not be properly vented. Thank you. There is a vent pipe inside the wall that goes up to the roof.

So I can only assume that the black pipe sloping downward from the wall, as opposed to downward from the trap, is cause the problem. Any further comments you can provide would be much appreciated.

Again, thank you for taking the time help me with this problem. I think you likely have something else going on. While the trap arm is going to be flooded because of the reverse slope, this would result in gases being less likely, not more likely.

Perhaps the vent is blocked? I actually ended up plumbing it into the clean out that is below the inlet that you see pictured. So the high Tee is the original drain? And the pipe that goes off horizontal above that is the vent because there is none inside the wall? I want to solve without cutting up vanity too much. Seen all kinds of discussions as to whether S trap is ok, etc. I was thinking of raising the p trap so that its bottom is inside the cabinet and connecting down to the wall outlet with two 90 degree elbows.

Is that going to work, or is it the same as an S trap, with the same possible smell and venting problems? Attach the fitting with a slip washer and nuts. Make sure the beveled sides of the washers face the threaded portion of the pipes. Apply pipe lubricant on the slip washer. It will ease installation and ensure a tight fit. Step 4 — Attach Trap Arm Remember, keep the beveled side of the washer facing the threaded drain stub-out and attach the trap arm to the drain stub-out.

The beveled side of the washers should face the trap bend. Attach the trap bend to the trap arm. Tighten all of the nuts with a pair of slip-joint pliers. After installing your P-Trap, you can use your sink without any issues or worry. If you can't find what you need, visit our customer support section.

All Rights Reserved. Terms of Use Privacy Policy. JavaScript seem to be disabled in your browser. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. How should I replace this ABS p-trap and drain? Ask Question. Asked 7 years ago.

Active 7 years ago. Viewed 6k times. I'm assuming something may have cracked and I'm ok with replacing it if necessary, but some questions: How do I know if something cracked and needs replacing? Should I replace just the p-trap side of the drain with the union nut or cut away and replace the connector on the wall side as well? If replacing the connector on the wall side, what parts should I use and how should I do the install?

I dislike the way that things are cemented since it means cutting a little more pipe each time I need to do a replacement. Improve this question. Jonathan Jonathan 5 5 gold badges 10 10 silver badges 17 17 bronze badges.

First, that's ABS pipe - important to get the right glue, etc.