A Restful Place for Seeking Buddha’s Salvation

Byodoin Temple Hōō-do

(Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture)

【Hōō (鳳凰)】, also known as the Fenghuang or Chinese Phoenix, is a mythical bird that symbolizes good omens. It is said to appear when a wise ruler comes into power. With its graceful appearance and virtuous nature, the Hōō has been featured in many works of art. The most notable example is the Hōō Hall (Phoenix Hall) at Byodoin Temple in Kyoto, built in 1053. This hall is also depicted on the Japanese 10 yen coin.

Byodoin Temple, located in the southern part of Kyoto, was designed and conceived as a representation of the Buddhist pure land. The garden in front of the hall symbolizes the Buddha’s field. The reflection of the hall in the pond’s water brings a sense of peace and calm to visitors. The sanctity and elegance of the hall, resembling a bird spreading its wings, along with the pair of Hōō copper statues on the roof, people began calling it the Hōō Hall at some point in history.

The temple was established by Yorimichi Fujiwara, who held the most authority in the emperor’s court as the emperor’s regent. His power virtually controlled the court. The power of Fujiwara clan was at the pinnacle when Yorimich and his father’s, Michinaga, generation. Michinaga Fujiwara wrote a Japanese poem reflecting their immense power:

“There is nothing in this world that would not align with my wish, just like the full moon, with nothing lacking.”

This temple showcases their power through its gorgeousness and elegance. However, even at the height of their power as a historical noble family, they still sought Buddha’s salvation.

Epidemics, such as smallpox and measles, raged throughout the country, causing immense fear at the time. Without knowledge of viruses, treatments, or specific cures, they relied on spiritual healing methods like esoteric rituals. Also they couldn’t even trust their own family due to the power struggles at court, described as a den of evil and iniquity. Even siblings and relatives within the Fujiwara clan engaged in game of politics with each other, sometimes escalating into military battles. There was no place of rest for them. They never found peace of mind.

The name of the temple, Byodoin (the Temple of Fairness), is derived from Buddhist teachings that Buddha will save people regardless of their social rank, leading them to heaven in the afterlife. It is said that the main Buddha in the hall can unconditionally save all sentient beings with its superior radiance, no matter how grave their sins. On the walls, 52 Worshiping Bodhisattvas float on clouds around the main Buddha, holding musical instruments as if they are playing the soothing melodies of heaven. This peaceful place might give Yorimichi a moment of tranquility.

The highlight is the Hōō statue, a national treasure, which is a stunning creation. The original pair of Hōō statues are displayed at the museum on the temple grounds. You cannot help but be captivated by the beauty of the Hōō.

* Please refer to the Byodoin Temple official site here.